The restaurant itself was anything but minimal. The exposed brick, faded wall-writing, and tin roof suggested rustic, while the bright-white tiles, marble bars, and glassy chandeliers pulled the decor in the opposite direction. Aside from Adriani’s framed awards, the central element of the room was the large, wood-burning oven. The oven, imported by boat from Naples, is made to heat up to 1,000° F. The menu contains over 20 signature pizzas and allows for making your own. A while after placing my order, I saw no one was making pizza. It turns out the pizza-maker was distracted in the back. As the waiter apologized, I saw the pizza-maker fly into the kitchen and, with unusual haste, make our order. I wish I could have told him to take his time.

The first pizza was the Montara ($12) with the addition of mozzarella di bufala ($4). The Montara is, in some ways, Forcella’s claim to fame. After the dough is flash fried at 375° F, Adriani  breaks from tradition by then adding ingredients and cooking the pie in the oven, leaving only a thin film of oil to coat the crust. The basic pie has San Marzano tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil. The pizza was incredibly unremarkable despite the unconventional, two-step preparation. Its center was soggy and the sauce tasted like a can of lukewarm, watery soup. The frying didn’t add much at all to the experience, aside from greasy fingers and a hundred or so calories. The only redeeming quality was the rich, creamy cheese.

The second pizza was the Fuorigrotta ($19), one of the special pizzas on the menu. This pizza had burrata cheese, layered with arugula, then sprinkled with pecorino and slices of lemon. Unfortunately, the confluence of these fresh ingredients was undercut by raw dough. Each bite felt more like a chew toy the closer I got to the crust. It was worsened by the bitter, acrid splotches where the pizza was burned (far from the pleasant charring that you would hope for). By the time I left, my friend and I began to feel sick and immediately cut our afternoon short.

I had a hard time believing world-champion pizza would be this disappointing. If this is the quality Adriani normally serves, I’m guessing that he won his titles by threatening to feed the judges his food. As I was leaving, I heard the waiter give the wrong order to the customers near us, only to be quickly rebuffed. While he muttered apologies, it was clear to me that this was a poorly managed restaurant. At first, I struggled to see why Forcella would need to aggressively market itself through Gilt, Groupon, and Yelp deals. They even have a deal that gives away a free pizza for liking them on Facebook. Well, now I know. Never again.

Forcella (site) RATING
334 Bowery St (btwn Bond St & Great Jones St) map
New York, NY 10012
Neighborhood: East Village

The restaurant occupies the space formerly home to Imperial No. 9, which was apparently a disaster. Isola takes inspiration from Italy’s Amalfi Coast, and is led by Chef Victor LaPlaca.

Although there were (oddly) plenty of tables available during Saturday brunch hours, we decided to sit at the bar. I only ordered a Macchiato ($4), made of a medium-roast South American blend. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it, not expecting a restaurant to do a better job than a fedora-wearing barista. It was easily one of the better espresso drinks I’ve had in a while. Another nice touch was the live music.

It was easy to feel comfortable in the large greenhouse-like room. The entire place felt light and airy without being cavernous. I struggled to see how Isola wasn’t swarming with hip, hungover 20-somethings during brunch. I even anticipated a wait to be seated. It’s possible word hasn’t gotten out fast enough, though Isola has been open since August. Either way, I’ll still be enjoying the enchanting atrium without the long wait. Isola is a spot you can add to your “All Seasons List.” There’s a wonderful seating area outdoors, and of course, excellent seating indoors. I imagine Isola would make a great date spot, provided you’re interested in seafood and in impressing your date.

Isola Trattoria and Crudo Bar (site) ★★★★★
9 Crosby St (between Grand St & Howard St) map
New York, NY 10013
Neighborhood: SoHo

Apologies for taking such a long break from the site. I’m ready to get back into regular reviewing. Fortunately, over the last few months, I’ve continued to explore and discover places in the city.

I’ll be writing themed posts, and also including some posts about things to do in the city that aren’t food-related.

There will be a few entries that are repeats of places I’ve already written about, but I feel like they’re worth revisiting.

As always, thanks for reading!

Before diving into the crepes, I looked over the drink menu. It was too early (for me) to consider a glass from their carefully selected wine list, and it was too hot outside for a steeped tea pot. I settled on the Homemade Lingonberry Soda ($3.50). Lingonberry, which you may have seen sold in IKEA as a jam, is a popular fruit in Nordic countries. The berry itself is quite tart, but the drink I had was watery and hardly packed the fizz I expected from a soda. There were chunks floating around in the drink, which was actually quite nice. I don’t think I’d get it again though.

The menu is divided evenly between savory crepes and sweet, dessert crepes. I started with their signature crepe, the savory Crepe Du Nord ($11). The crepe came with a salad that I ignored, and I dove right into the buckwheat crepe pouch.

The inside was filled with softly scrambled eggs and the crepe itself was topped with a  layer of Norwegian-smoked salmon. The depth of the fish was accentuated by the dill cream, making the experience both smoky and bright at the same time. I savored each salty, fresh bite while thinking about how such a vibrant breakfast would make a perfect start to any day.

On a separate occasion, I went for the Crepe Complète ($10), another item on the savory side. This crepe was definitely a breakfast dish, made with two eggs, ham, and gruyere cheese. The eggs were cooked sunny-side up, so the runny yolk eventually made it to every corner. This crepe was definitely lighter, but the buckwheat definitely added some weight to the meal. The gruyere was a nice touch, lightly scattered throughout, but was present enough to add distinct dimension of taste to the meal.

The Midnight Sun ($9) is probably the dessert that fans of Crepes du Nord dream about on a regular basis, or maybe it’s just me. The crepe was neatly packed with chunks of white chocolate, topped with strawberries, and a scoop of whipped cream. The unbelievable richness and sheer joy that comes with eating it compels me to always share this one with a friend. The melted pieces of chocolate added a deep, creamy texture. The chilled whipped cream gave a pleasant temperature contrast to every careful bite. The crepe was also dusted with powdered sugar. Unlike the savory crepes made of buckwheat, this crepe was made with unprocessed fine-milled wheat. The overall dessert wasn’t cloyingly sweet in any way, but still managed to be addictive.

To say that Crepes du Nord is a Franco-Scandinavian fusion is a bit of a stretch, but that doesn’t bother me. The friendly waitstaff is certainly Scandinavian though. Relative to the neighborhood and taking into consideration the quality, the food is not pricey at all. Crepes du Nord is ideal for a breakfast or brunch date, maybe even a late evening dinner. Do yourself a favor and go at a time when they aren’t busy. Crepes are delicate and can easily be ruined if they’re rushed. It’s a small space, so more people will probably make the meal feel like you’re eating with a crowd. Don’t arrive with more than four people, since the tables aren’t arranged to accommodate larger groups. Crepes du Nord is easily a personal favorite. Don’t tell too many people. I’d regret sharing this if this place becomes overrun by friends of EatLoveNY fans.

Crepes du Nord (site) ★★★★★
17 S William St (btwn Beaver St & Mill Ln) map
New York, NY 10004
Neighborhood: Financial District

The walls of Pok Pok are covered with the album art of vinyl records Ricker collected from a shop in Bangkok. Inside the narrow store you’ll hear the faint buzz of Thai pop music while you look over their short menu. Aside from the wings, Ricker boldly goes where most Thai chefs avoid, by offering obscure items that only adventurous eaters would consider (it’s almost no surprise that Portlandians embraced it). Although I really wanted to try the Khao Man Som Tam, green papaya salad with coconut rice and shredded pork, I had a duty to report on the wings. This was one of those not-so-rare moments when I wish I had a second stomach.

I asked for half an order of the famous Ike’s Wings ($7.25) and requested that they be spicy.  The wings are marinated in fish sauce, garlic, and sugar to start. It’s important to note that they aren’t part of Thai cuisine, and have their roots in Vietnam. After marinating them, the wings are deep fried and coated with a caramelized garlic and Phu Quoc fish sauce mixture. I hope I haven’t lost anyone with the mention of fish sauce and chicken wings, because the result is a fantastic blend of crispy meatiness with an exceptional balance of spice and sweetness. Ike’s Wings, named after Ich Truong (an early employee of Ricker’s that helped perfect the recipe),  are incredibly hard to put down once you start. The wings are sticky and it’s difficult not to make a mess on your fingertips. Clean yourself up with the unlimited supply of nearby wet naps. The three wings were whole pieces that were accompanied by an unusually delicious Vietnamese pickled salad. It was tarty, subtly sweet and refreshingly crisp. It was a perfect way to cut through the heavy, thick flavor of the wings.

If you need something to sip on (you will) while you’re munching away at your wings, ask for their Som Drinking Vinegars ($4). Depending on which flavor you get, the drink is made by macerating fruits, vegetables, or herbs and concentrating the flavor with cane sugar and coconut vinegar. The powerfully tart mix is stirred with soda water. I was partial to the pomegranate flavor, but they also had tamarind, honey, and apple. It’s like nothing else I’ve had before, and it pairs unbelievably well with the flavor of the wings. If you would rather not spend the extra money on the drink, you can get the Pandanus Water for free. The water is flavored with Pandanus leaf, which is found throughout Northern Thailand. The aromatic water feels slightly heavier and has the soft taste of toasted rice with vanilla accents.

It’s unfortunate, but I can understand why people are comparing  these sticky wings to Korean fried chicken. It’s very easy to tire of a platter from Bon Chon, but Ike’s Wings have an addictive element that puts the entire package on a completely different level. I won’t overlook the fact that Pok Pok is slightly pricier than most people are used to, but the quality of food is superb. I admire the care and thought Ricker put into the food he serves. The heat of the chilies used at Pok Pok changes seasonally because come from multiple locations in Southeast Asia. Ricker has to re-tune the recipe to achieve his signature flavor on a regular basis.  The staff is friendly, and aren’t the sort of off-putting hipsters you’ll find across the bridge. Pok Pok is a great spot to grab a late snack before you drink yourself silly in the Lower East Side. Keep in mind that they’re open only after 5pm.

*Fun Fact: The name “Pok Pok” comes from the sound made by a mortar hitting a pestle. It’s used a staple of Thai kitchens  for grinding chilies (and whatever else needs crushing).*

Pok Pok (site) ★★★★★
137 Rivington St (between Norfolk St & Suffolk St) map
New York, NY 10002
Neighborhood: Lower East Side

Overwhelmed by the options in the menu hanging off the ceiling, I asked for a recommendation (and later noted that nearly everyone who ordered asked the same thing). I started with the Meyer Lemon Chicken, probably in a desperate grasp for some familiarity. The sandwich was warm, and densely packed with small bits of soft chicken. Because they used Meyer lemons, there wasn’t the tang you’d expect from your local deli’s lemon chicken sandwich. The meat had a faint honey-like sweetness and the sun-dried tomato mayo added a strong tart that dominated the entire sandwich. The crunchy kale added a refreshing crispness to each bite. The light drizzling of olive oil served added more of a pleasant aromatic element than it did to the taste.

In case you didn’t get the idea by now, No. 7 Sub spares no details. Kord and Suchomski go so far as to bake their own custom bread out in Crown Heights every morning. The launch of No. 7 Sub was even delayed for months so they could work on the formula for a bit longer. The result is a thin, and subtly sweet bread with a crispy outer shell. The bread serves its purpose by being a sturdy, but unobtrusive vessel for holding all the goods. I was more curious than I was hungry, and got the Zucchini Parm as a second sandwich. The sandwich was layered with creamy Fontina cheese, pickled jalapenos, soft zucchini, sweet onions, and BBQ potato chips. The soft slices of pickled jalapenos were surprisingly weak, and it was the taste of the milky Fontina that lingered long after the last bite. Both of these elements, along with the zucchini, gave the sandwich a mushy center that I wasn’t a fan of. It seemed as if the addition of the BBQ chips from Zapp’s were meant to balance the texture. However, the combination of the crisp, toasted bread with the thick cut chips were overwhelmingly crunchy and seemed inappropriately packaged with the softer elements of the sandwich.

At $9 per sandwich, the inevitable question is whether it was worth it. If you’re someone who appreciates the meticulous nature of No. 7 Sub, I would say that you should consider stopping by. There’s a lot of thought and experimentation that goes on at No 7. Sub, and they deserve credit for doing something no one else is doing. Num Pang comes close, but the innovation of Kord surpasses anything else I’ve seen. It’s almost expected that there’s going to be a few hits and a few misses. If you stop by, I’d suggest going with someone else and trying half of as much as you can. Keep in mind that the wildly popular General Tso’s Tofu sandwich was replaced by Mongolian Tofu.  There’s no seating, but the shop is fittingly around the corner from the Ace Hotel lobby, where the hippest and most entrepreneurial people of the city seem to congregate. Afterwards, you should get some coffee from the Stumptown Coffee bar located by the lobby.

*Bonus video of Tyler Kord making a sandwich, brought to you by Eater.com*

No. 7 Sub (site) ★★★★☆
1188 Broadway (between 28th St & 29th St) map
New York, NY 10001
Neighborhoods: Flatiron

The participants started with “commodity” grade coffee, the cheap, corporate-office coffee that delivers caffeine and nothing more. They responded to the black coffee negatively, comparing it to “tar” and emphasizing the bitterness. However, after sweetening a new cup of the same brew with milk and sugar, they accepted the coffee with little hesitation. There was a familiarity with this cup. None of this should be a surprise. Most people drink coffee to get through the day, not because they actually enjoy coffee. Given the easy access to substandard coffee, rinsing it with milk and loading it with sweeteners is almost forgivable.

For comparison, the attendees were also given a taste of a single-origin Guatemalan bean from Heart, a highly-respected micro-roaster in Portland, Oregon. Single-origin coffee is distinguishable from regular coffee because the beans are from one region or even a single farm. This specificity allows the coffee to achieve a particular flavor that gets accentuated. Single-origin coffee is difficult for large chains to sell, because maintaining a relationship with a farmer is something independent coffee shops are better suited for. The reaction the black coffee from Heart received was incredibly positive. People who weren’t used to drinking unadulterated coffee were praising the freshness of the brew and picking up on the naturally fruity notes. The response to the second cup, in which Heart’s coffee was doused with milk and sugar, was that it was “muted” and “dulled.” Most people found no difference between the earlier “commodity” cup with milk and sugar and this one.

If you haven’t picked up on the point of the test yet, it’s that by routinely splashing  the same condiments into your coffee, you may be missing out on something far more interesting. Not all coffee tastes like the Green Mountain sludge you’ve been served out of a Keurig at your job. Some coffee is special, and you may be missing out if you tend to load sugar and milk the way you’ve always done. This post may not resonate at all with those of you who get your coffee from a food stand or sweetened up at a Starbucks (a Mocha Choca Caramel Venti Latte is hardly a coffee). However, some of you may be interested in what exactly is driving the recent emergence of independent coffee shops in New York City. It’s not simply that the cafe doubles as a cool hangout spot. There’s something exciting happening with those beans and it’s worth getting into. Erin makes a great analogy: “Cheap wine can easily be made more drinkable by turning it into sangria, but an exceptionally fine wine will never be improved by adding sugar, fruit, and brandy. Taste your wine before you throw in those orange slices, and maybe taste your coffee before you start scooping in the granulated stuff: You might just find it doesn’t need the help.”

*On a personal note: I won’t apologize for my snobbery, but I will invite you to join me. Also, the “test” at Coffee Commons is only anecdotal evidence. It’s obviously not a laboratory experiment, so use your own judgment. I found it persuasive.*

After walking through the awkward double-doors (see it for yourself), I stepped into the narrow dining room sparsely decorated to resemble a banquet hall. I started with a Thai Iced Tea ($3), and quietly accepted that not every restaurant can serve a drink like Pinto. My friend, Andy, asked for the Pad Ped Moo Korb ($11), and smartly restrained himself to a moderate spice level of  3. Although there’s something desirable in ordering a dish that produces a convulsing pain on your tongue, food from Thailand is known for having a complex balance of sweet, sour, spicy, and savory tastes. To really appreciate the effort put into making the dish, you should avoid kicking the heat up too much, at least on your first visit. The dish was composed of chunks of pork belly fried until crispy, though not so much as to lose the juicy, fatty center. The meat was deeply flavored with wild ginger, green peppercorns, and a paste made from coriander root, chiles, and shallots. The Thai-style oyster sauce adds an element of sweetness and tames the intensity of the plate. The fragrant, rich pork belly alongside the tiny eggplant slices delivered a pleasant burn that gradually picked up the more that was eaten.

It was by luck that I settled on the perfect contrast to Andy’s Pad Ped Moo Korb. Larb ($11) is a national dish of Laos, and it’s no surprise that it appears in the menu of an Isan restaurant. Larb is a mix of minced meat, herbs, pungent mint leaves, and the sharp taste of lime. It was enlivened with chopped red onion, shallots, scallions, and cilantro. The crispy bits of ground duck were sprinkled with toasted rice powder that gently toned down the flavor. There was a sprinkling of chiles, but the nature of the spice was much different than Andy’s dish. The larb was incredibly refreshing, and the cool mint made it a perfect spring/summer lunch option. The acute punchiness of the larb and the savory spice of the pad ped can become overwhelming without Sticky Rice ($2) on the side to cut through it all.

Despite all the positive response Zabb Elee gets, it’s still relatively unknown unless you happen to be a NYC restaurant aficionado. For the type of food you get, it’s relatively underpriced. On a personal note, it’s meals like this that remind me of why I take the time to look for good food in the city. Andy and I briefly spoke about how it’s hard to imagine that some dinners can be priced at $100+ with food like this available. I’ll definitely return to Zabb Elee many times, and I think you will too after visiting.

Zabb Elee (site) ★★★★★
75 2nd Ave (between 4th St & 5th St) map
New York, NY 10003
Neighborhood: East Village

Almost predictably, I settled on the popular Fried Chicken Box ($13). The meal arrived in a platter with three pieces of fried chicken, a biscuit, and a side. It wasn’t until I took a bite of the chicken that I began questioning the price. The chicken was appropriately hot and crispy, but there was hardly a hint of spice at all. The blandness was accentuated by the mediocre quality of meat; the thighs were about as boring as they could possibly get. The tasteless meal was complemented with a dry biscuit, something that was unusually surprising given the high turnover (I watched two fresh batches of biscuits leave the kitchen). As a side, I went with the Mac & Cheese, a gloppy and thick disappointment. Their Mac & Cheese is topped with hot sauce, which was probably the most interesting part of the entire meal.

The thighs were a miss, but I had my fingers crossed for the pies. I requested the Key Lime Pie ($4.50), a quintessential element of Southern cuisine. The slice of pie was seated on a crumbly graham crust and was pleasantly smooth. The key lime pie had a sweet tartness that I enjoyed as well. There was an impressive richness to every bite, allowing me to savor it slowly.  The slice was topped with a thick dollop of whipped cream that almost made me forget the small portion I received.

The pie was good, but it wasn’t exceptional enough to warrant going to Williamsburg even if you aren’t hipster-phobic. The service is a bad joke. The staff appears to be dazed and confused, with each person less helpful than the next. I’ve always associated Southern comfort food with unreasonably large portions. Pies N Thighs doesn’t even come close to hitting the right vibe. It’s almost embarrassing on my part that I brought a friend along expecting that hipsters could make decent fried chicken. I shamelessly would have spent my money at Popeye’s instead. If for whatever reason you fail to heed this warning and insist on going to Pies N Thighs, ask to be seated in the back room that is exposed to the outside air.

Pies N Thighs (site) ★★★☆☆
166 S 4th St (between Bedford Ave & Driggs Ave) map
Brooklyn, NY 11211
Neighborhood: Williamsburg – South Side